On My Own in Jaipur

India is so busy, there is always something going on around you and it is hard to have time to even think. Today, our group was site seeing and shopping in the hectic city market. When you are with a large number of people there is always pressure to hurry up and be somewhere. Since we were heading back to our hotel I asked to stay back by myself so I could walk around the city on my own.

I headed down the street. In India everyone wants you. They call for your attention, they approach you to come into their shop, "just look, no charge to look". This may be true but the Indians are masters of high pressure sales! I have learned that once you enter a shop it is extremely difficult to leave without buying something. The salesmen are relentless in their persuit of your money. They follow you down the street just to get your attention.

For some reason in India no one ever wants to give you change. They rarely have small denominations or just don’t want to part with the bills and coins. When you take a rick shaw or a taxi they don’t ever seem to have change, so if you don’t have the exact amount you end up giving them more money. I try to keep small bills and coins in my pocket as there are many occasions to dole out money.

As I walked into a section of town that was not in the main tourist area, I was accosted by a barrage of beggars and salesmen. A white foreign woman is an easy target. People looking for handouts are common and you have to decide ahead of time how you are going to handle the situation. Some people are more desperate than others, some are physically disabled and many are young mothers or children dressed in rags. All want your money. Some of it is a scam but the bottom line is there are many who depend on the handouts given by others. Since you cannot possibly give to everyone you have to choose wisely who you will give to. Usually once you start handing out money you become easy prey.

A woman surround by lots of children and a baby approached me with a U.S. dollar bill she wanted to trade me for rupees. What she really wanted was a handout. I made the mistake of opening my wallet. I only had large bills. Knowing she had a sucker, she led me to a little shop so I could get change. Understand two things, one, I’m the biggest sucker going and two it’s really, really hard for me to say no!

Most shops that line the streets are in rows of cement cubicles the size of single car garages, when the door is raised they are open for business. Little markets sell soda, candy, a little food and sundries. I was completely frazzled as I entered a small grocery store. I looked around and a man dressed in white garb, which is typical Muslim dress, asked me how he could help. I told him I just needed to get out of the crowd for a minute. He understood and told me to follow him (everyone wants you to follow them!) Not knowing what I was getting into, he led me out to the back of the shop where there was a small courtyard garden. “Sit” he said and let me to a marble bench. Not being able to say no I obliged and took him up on his offer.

After gaining my composure, I went back into the shop. The woman was waiting in the street for me so I hesitated going out again. “Sit, Sit”, I was led to a chair and sat down. Before I knew it I was chatting with the locals. “Who will be the next U.S. president they asked?” No one was a George Bush fan. This crowd favored Barack Obama. We had a pleasant time talking about this and that. A woman came in who was a retired teacher, the shop owners wife was also a teacher and was getting her P.H.D. (many Indians are highly educated but are working in jobs for which they are highly overqualified). The group felt that teachers should be greatly honored. This is true in India but not in the U.S.

I was ready to face the streets but one of the gentlemen insisted I stay for tea. Like I said, it’s hard to argue. He left the shop and returned about ten minutes later with a baggie filled with tea. Marsala tea is delicious and is made with milk and sugar. He poured tea for everyone in the shop and we drank together.

There is no getting away easy but finally I said my good-byes and faced my friends in the street. That was only the beginning of many adventures that afternoon. When I returned to the hotel four hours later my friends were all worried. They know I am the biggest sucker and they usually try to keep me focused. They were afraid to turn me loose on my own so they were glad I was back.

I really love to meet people and talk about the ordinary things. These are the times when I feel most apart of India. Today was a special day. I’m exhausted, I did spend lots of money, but for me, I have come to look at it like this, I may not always get the best deal but it is an experience that I am buying. The experiences of the day are priceless.