Midnight Train to Jaipur

I write this from our train heading to Jaipur. We arrived at the station with a busload of luggage. Porters with bright red turbans and official armbands carried our suitcases to the train. Some carried two full suitcases at a time…on top of their heads! We huddled together at the platform to make sure our luggage was secure.

The train arrived and a mass of people throng to get on board. The train has first class seating for those who are fortunate enough to get one. Some sit in cars with seats only. We are in the sleeper cars. Each area has seating for six on one side and two on the other. Our luggage stays with us so I am sitting on a seat with my suitcase under my feet, my second bag and my computer bag are close by. The seats we are sitting on will fold into bunk beds. We have been given sheets, blankets, pillows and a towel.

There is a constant bustle as children run up and down the isles, the conductor checks on seating and armed police walk through the cars. People talk is soft conversations; a radio quietly plays music from a local station. Every few minutes someone walks through with food. For forty rupees ($.80) I got a warm veggie sandwich and a bag of chips. You can buy chai, coffee, bottled water, tomato soup and even order a meal that will be delivered to your seat at 8:30.

Once a seat has been assigned no one wants to move, even if you are traveling with friends. It can be awkward when you are squished between grandma and the man who keeps falling over when he sleeps. Our compartment is now full with six on one side and two of us on the other.

The train has a slow and steady rhythm. It is a very peaceful and a pleasant way to pass the time. We are intermixed with the locals. It has gotten dark and people have already begun to settle down for the night. The little girl sitting next to me, Rutva, who is about eighteen months, was happy to share a cookie. We compare ankle bracelets and pretend to have a conversation on our cell pretend phones. I take her picture and show her. I am downloading them onto my laptop. We watch a slideshow of my cats and my pictures of the train. She is amused but like me she is getting sleepy. Soon my seat will turn into a bunk and I will try to sleep.

At four A.M. we will arrive in Jaipur. We have to be ready to hop off the train with all of our luggage. I sure hope those guys in the red turbans are there to carry my bags. Once again we will board a bus and head off to a new city.